Monterey- Day One:
Now, we aim for Gilroy, the next step towards our goal.
Although I neglected to stop for pictures of the rolling hills of dead tan
grasses and utility lines, the next two hours was tedious. Muddling through the
ups and downs of radio stations, ranging from Davis Campus to scores of
stations playing a Mariachi or Mariachi Pop-like sound, we saw less travelers
than expected on Labor Day Weekend. About 4 pm, we reach the famous Casa de
Fruta. Being that this little fruit stand expanded into a booming, bustling
tourist stop after 100 years in business, and was once the only stop along this
stretch, of course, we stopped too. An indoor/outdoor commercial market, full
of candy bins, dried fruit bins, and garlic braids hanging from the ceiling. We
had the sense to stop and taste the wine, picked two bottles, I found a
keepsake, and we made our way to the register; a bottleneck to the exit. We
paid for the items we had and a slice of local-made jerky from a bin. I took
just a couple pictures on the way out of an antique fruit picker and part of
the building. I have to get better with this camera I think!
After that quick stop, we were back on our way…or so we
thought. After only 10 minutes on the road...we finally hit the traffic we were
waiting for. A 6 mile stretch turned into 30 minutes as we crept along in 100
degree heat. Finally, we see why. Four roads, all packed, converging on one
stoplight which lets one road convergence through at a time. Eventually it was
our turn to go, and after some almost-horn hitting to get the person in front
of us to get a move on, we got through. Part of our stream of cars turning
left, some going straight. We were back to speed in no time.
The
last batch of traffic we hit was Highway 101, where we had to “briefly” jump on
and off the freeway to Monterey Peninsula. By this time, we were ready to be
there. When I finally could see glimpses of the ocean through the rolling sand
dunes, I breathed a sigh of relief. Almost there, almost out of the car for the
day. After a slow crawl on 101, and a few confusing moments, we were in front
of the Monterey Hotel. Right in downtown Monterey, on the main drag. This
hotel, this furniture, so luxurious, beautiful. Yay, a nice first stop. What
they failed to tell us, we booked the 4th floor for the view….and
the elevator was out. It had been out when we made the reservations too.
Apparently not to be fixed. Great.
Dinner was to be found not by the concierges’ recommendation,
but walking around a bit and seeing for ourselves. Passing a group of kids,
apparently used to being on the streets, they thanked us for our contribution…which
we had given hours before, we continued past our recommended destination,
slipped around the block, and tried Montrio Bistro. A private party had
infiltrated, and we were not able to get in. We continued on. Eventually, we
chose the Crown and Anchor, a traditional British Arms-type pub. I loved the
atmosphere and the “stuff”. There was an imminent nautical theme and a noisy brouhaha.
After one bite of the mussels in butter and garlic sauce, however, I knew I
wasn’t getting a proper dinner. The mussels were fresh but the wine in the
sauce was not sautéed long enough to remove that bitter alcohol flavor, which
seeped into the mussels and broth. Anything that probably would have tasted
good was all but destroyed on contact….but the neighbors were friendly and the
wine was good. By speaking to two women, locals, we learned of several places
in town to visit, but chose one I liked the look of that was right at the foot
of our hotel; My Attic. We finished our drinks over good conversation and we
headed to the other bar. After ensuring our dress code was appropriate per the
sign I read earlier, we went in. Locating a tiny front bar, packed and too
small, we entered the “main room”. An overly large room with what seem to be
wing-backed loveseats lined the walls, a sofa/loveseat to our right wall, bar
to the left, and….the table. I giant, 8 person gothic table sat in the center
of the room, with no one there….and no one ever sat there during our stay. We
sat in one of the loveseats. Our waitress asked my martini choices twice. I am
particular; up, dry, twist of lemon-no olives. I chose Tanqueray gin. I got
damned olives. After addressing this and landing the olives on the
table/chair/footstool, I got my twist of lemon. By this point we were tuckered
out, so we finished our drinks, climbed our towering fortress, shut out as much
of the din as possible (did I mention they provide earplugs standard with the
room?), and slept.
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